Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
